Reviews – Page 2

Diner’s Drive Ins, and Dives and Boston Burger Company: Can we Trust Guy Fieri’s Judgment?

Published on November 15, 2016November 15, 2016 by The Crimson CraveLeave a comment

by Estefania Lahera ’20

I grew up with Food Network. Rachel Ray was my spirit animal, Emeril was my alarm clock with his “Bams!” and “Kick it up a notch!”. Saturday mornings were spent in the kitchen with a box of Kraft mac n cheese, where I would pretend to be Rachel Ray, standing on chairs to reach the stove.

In short, I believe in Food Network. So when I say that there was a new show, Guy’s Diner’s Drive Ins, and Dives, I was like…. wtf.

Who the heck is Guy Fieri? Where did he come from, this weird dude with porcupine hair and a smoker’s voice? How was he qualified to give anyone advice on food? He was literally like a bum in my eyes, some creepy stranger that lacked the authenticity and substance of the Food Network icons like Emeril or Alton Brown or Cat Cora?

It was karma that my sister and mom fell in love with the show, forcing me to endure hearing their oohs and aahs over what I felt was a mediocre restaurant with a perv for a host. But I got over my initial resistance, and while I am still by no means a fan of Guy Fieri, I’m in the habit now, when I travel or go anywhere, to look for restaurants that were featured on his show because many of them are often hidden gems.

The closest one to Harvard, besides Bartley’s, is Boston Burger Co, and given the opportunity to go, I was happy to try it out.

Having looked at the menu and the prices, I was expecting a chain like Shake Shack or Tasty Burger, but it was an actual restaurant ambience, a clean place with actual table service and tableware, which was really nice.

The menu was extensive, another warming sign; a menu that tries to much fails more than it succeeds. But my friend and I ordered without incident: the mac attack for me, because that’s what Guy Fieri had, and the Sophie for my friend. It was an excellent sign that the waitress asked how we wanted out burgers cooked.

The burger was supposed to come with chips, but my poor stomach couldn’t handle the prospect of more junk food, so I just got a plain salad.

Then the burger was brought, and my first thought was that wasn’t as big as I would have expected. I actually think that was a good thing, considering the powerful flavors contained. Meat, mac n cheese, and bacon. That’s it.

And the flavor was definitely there. Not, it wasn’t gourmet, wasn’t extremely sophisticated, wasn’t enveloped in layers of flavors. But it’s a $13 burger, and gourmet does not necessarily mean good. It was solid. The mac and cheese was the gooey, stovetop kind, not a particularly complex flavor but also not one-dimensional and fake. The bacon was crispy and well cooked. The bun didn’t give way, holding it’s body without being stale or bland (although it had a shiny, almost oiliness that was a bit off-putting). Overall, it was a good burger and I enjoyed it.

Then I just had to order a frappe. I couldn’t help myself. I got the strawberry one, and looking back that was probably a mistake. Most strawberry desserts, if they are on the cheaper side, are usually fake strawberry, syrup or canned or even extract, and this was no exception.

The frappe came with a grand entrance, but the flavor didn’t deliver. It was just a rather think syrupy drink. The whipped cream was normal, not especially fresh or special. The Nilla wafers that were glued via frosting to the glass were stale. It came with a piece of cake on top, but if you’re going to put cake on top, either make it good or just don’t put it. It doesn’t help your case to stick on there two stale, dry squares on plain vanilla cake with syrup, clearly canned strawberries in between that had the bitter taste of preservation.

Like I said though, strawberries desserts are always tough, always a compromise. I’m sure that any of the other frappes would have been better, especially the Nutella one. If only Boston Burger Co. would invite me back to do a sampling! **wink wink nudge nudge**

So is Guy Fieri’s judgment sound?

I would say yes. Relatively affordable complex burgers are not rare, but that doesn’t diminish their value, especially if they are done well. It’s a solid standby that won’t blow your socks off, but still has a bit of a wow factor if you order the right things.

Remember to follow the Crimson Crave on Instagram at @crimson_crave and if you to see more about my personal food adventures, feel free to follow me at @tinyfoodtraveler!

Juliet: A New Love Story

Published on November 15, 2016November 15, 2016 by The Crimson CraveLeave a comment

By Joseph Winters ’20

“One thing is guaranteed: this will be energetic, personal cooking that’s truly one of a kind,” wrote Bon Appétit this year in the magazine’s roundup of the fifty best new restaurants in the United States. Also featured in Entrepreneur Magazine, Travel + Leisure, and Food and Wine Magazine, Juliet, the eight-month-old Somerville restaurant, has made quite a loud entry into the Boston area food scene. Juliet won the Improper Bostonian’s Best Breakfast award earlier this year, and the restaurant is currently one of five nominees for Eater’s Best Restaurant 2016 award. I got to stop by for breakfast this week and see it for myself.

Juliet is right in the heart of Union Square in Somerville, in what seems like a foodie hotspot. Nearby is the famous Union Square Donuts, which sells its donuts every Tuesday at the Harvard Science Center Plaza Farmers Market; Bronwyn, a specialty beer garden; the upscale Bergamot; and others.

Juliet’s interior is minimalist, with some modern decor and a very airy feel—you can watch the cooks preparing your food from either the main seating tables or the bar. Standing behind a glass case where there were a few pastries was the hostess, Joanna. She welcomed me to Juliet and suggested a few breakfast options. I scanned the a la carte menu that was printed and posted to the wall: toasts with different toppings, egg sandwiches, yogurt bowls. Not a huge selection, but varied. I chose a quinoa bowl and toast with cured salmon, tamarind, and yogurt, paying at the counter with a Square transaction—sort of unexpected in such an up-and-coming restaurant. The price, however, was not unexpected: $16 for a relatively small portion of quinoa and a piece of toast (it did have cured salmon on it, though).

As I learned later, though, there was much more to this pricing model than was immediately apparent. Although I didn’t get to speak with co-owner Katrina Jazayeri, her vision for Juliet includes not only great food but great social justice. In fact, she studied health care inequalities and got a degree in social justice from the University of California Santa Cruz in 2011. Her background has made her look beyond food at some of the overlooked parts of the restaurant industry. The reason my transaction was a little more expensive than usual, and the reason I did it at the front counter through Square, was that tipping isn’t allowed at Juliet. Gratuity is automatically included in all the set prices, and a calculated amount of “tips” is distributed equally amongst both the hosts and the kitchen staff. This, to me, was an innovative business model, and it probably played a large part in Jazayeri winning the 2016 Eater Young Guns—a national award “recognizing individuals setting themselves apart early in their careers.”

I sat with my bowl of breakfast quinoa at a counter facing the street. The quinoa, dotted with chunks of squash and carrot, was perfectly moist. Some crisped rice-like addition gave it texture, and a soft-boiled egg oozed into the grains. The toast was delicious, as well—homemade bread sliced thick and slathered with yogurt, then heaped generously with cured salmon and a schmear of tamarind paste and what looked like a sprinkling of dill. I savored every bite. Not at all a traditional breakfast, but that wasn’t was I was looking for. I wanted something interesting and unconventional, something I would never think to make at home, and that’s exactly what I got.

I just had breakfast, but Juliet serves lunch and dinner, as well as a special weekend brunch. The lunch options are mostly sandwiches and soups, but dinner gets very interesting. They have an a la carte menu for a more walk-in style dinner, or they have their prix fixe dinner available in four different seating, either with three courses ($60) or five courses ($83). Menu items featured on the prix fixe menu include things like endive salad with treviso condiment, roast freedom ranger chicks with fennel and chili jus, and tarte tartin.

The variability of Juliet was really interesting to me. As Joanna put it, this is a part of their role in the community: by offering a variety of price points, they are able to be an accessible option for more people. In practice, I don’t know how much this has yielded the desired result, but it’s certainly a great idea.

I left Juliet very happy to have enjoyed an amazing breakfast, and excited to be back for an a la carte lunch or dinner—I’m not sure about the prix fixe dinner (it’s certainly outside of my price range!), but maybe when my parents visit…

Get it Plated

Published on October 31, 2016October 31, 2016 by The Crimson CraveLeave a comment

By Joseph Winters ’20

Personally, one of the most jarring things about the transition from high school to college was in the impersonalized food scene. No longer was I cooking my own breakfast, lunch, and dinner every day, but loading up my tray at the dining hall. I recognize this isn’t the case for many college students. Some look at vegetables as they would an alien invader. “I have never eaten kale,” a Wigglesworth resident grimaced as he gingerly poked a pile of greens I was about to chop. In fact, he had apparently never cooked anything more complex than a piece of toast. Nationally, according to a survey by the DailyMail, one in three college students can’t even boil an egg. This is just sad.

But, having grown up in a family where I was an active participant in the dinner-making process, mealtime at Annenberg was less fulfilling. There’s some degree of creativity you can employ in the dining hall—for example, making brown butter in the microwave—but it couldn’t quite replicate the joy I used to get from cooking.

Enter Plated. I had seen their ads on Facebook describing a meal kit delivery service to make cooking easier, and was intrigued. After contacting Plated’s marketing team, I found myself with a big box of temperature-controlled food that they’d sent me for free in exchange for a review. I picked it up at the Science Center and walked it back to my dorm, drawing attention from some of the tourists in front of the John Harvard statue. Inside the box I got not one, but two different meals: salmon poke bowls and shakshuka. Each meal came with pre-wrapped ingredients and a big recipe card with step-by-step instructions and photos.

Before ordering on the Plated website, I had gotten to choose from a surprisingly thorough array of meal options, ranging from butternut squash pizza to Asian-style noodles, with options for every kind of diet, including gluten-free, vegetarian, low calorie, and “quick”. I had picked based on perceived difficulty; particularly, there was no way I’d ever think to make a salmon poke bowl from scratch in my dorm kitchen, so I was curious to see how Plated would make the task feasible. I unpacked the box to find every ingredient in its own conveniently-portioned container. Plated had accidentally sent me the wrong recipe card, but they sent the right PDF via email.

Based on the card, my salmon poke bowl would be done within forty minutes. Just to fact-check. I looked at the clock as I started cooking. 5:45. First of all, something to know about Plated is that they provide the ingredients, not the tools; it’s assumed that you already have things like a knife, sauté pan, cookie sheet, etc. This is a fair assumption, but you should note that if you want to use Plated, you’ll have to rent this kind of equipment from the FDO (if you’re a freshman), which is precisely what I did.

As the rice was cooking in my improvised rice maker (a shallow sauté pan with a lid), I unwrapped this tiny bag with a single clove of garlic and got to work, cutting it on my improvised cutting board (a paper towel). I diced some garlic, scallions, and chopped a cucumber mixing them in a bowl with some conveniently prepackaged soy sauce, and combined some prepackaged mayo and sriracha in a different bowl.

I seared the salmon very quickly on both sides with a little package of sesame oil, crumbled it, and added it to the veggie/soy sauce mix with some furikake (Asian spice mix). After I made do with draining the rice by slowly pouring off the water, all I had left to do was “plate” the salmon poke bowl: half the brown rice, salmon/veggie mix, conveniently pre-made seaweed salad, and sliced avocado made for a beautiful and delicious-looking bowl! Plus, after all that, the time was only 6:45! A little longer than the recipe card had said, but I’d put the blame on myself; I was taking a lot of pictures, after all.

The shakshuka went well, too. It was probably a little easier than than the salmon poke bowls, but I did have to procure my own eggs and oil. Since I didn’t want to buy a big bottle of oil, I just substituted an equal amount of butter that happened to be in the fridge (sorry to that butter’s owner!). This time, I got a friend to help. We sprinkled a spice mix over the can of chickpeas and put them to bake while she tore kale and I chopped garlic, an onion, and a bell pepper. I sautéed everything for a few minutes, then added the canned tomato, tomato paste, and kale, sautéing until the kale was wilted.

It would have been better if we had had a cast iron skillet so we could put the pan from the stovetop into the microwave without being afraid of the handle melting, but due to a lack of foresight, this wasn’t the case. I broke two eggs into little nests that I dug into our make-do pan and cautiously set it on the top rack of the oven, watching it carefully to check for melting. I set the naan bread in the oven to warm up as well. The recipe suggested that I wrap the bread in foil, which would have prevented it from drying out, but there was no tin foil in the dorm kitchen, so we made do.

Once the eggs were set, I took the pan out of the oven and divided the shakshuka between the two of us. We were going to use bowls, but we only could find one bowl in the dorm kitchen, so we ended up using these small skillets. Sort of artsy, we thought as we dug in. The shakshuka was a delicious success, and with a whole piece of naan for each of us, it was a surprisingly large amount of food. I had heard reviewers of other meal kit services say the portions were meager, but with Plated, the portions were on the generous side. My friend and I finished the meal feeling very satisfyingly full.

Overall, I’d say the improvisational nature of my cooking experience is more of a testament to the effectiveness of Plated’s service rather than a detriment. Plated made it possible for me to put together an incredible meal under the horrible conditions of a dorm kitchen. The lack of kitchenware was just part of the initial struggle. If I had had to scour the web to find a recipe and then go all the way to Whole Foods and back to get the ingredients, this amazing salmon poke bowl probably never would have been made. Plated is about saving time and effort so you can continue being frenetically busy the entire day and then still cook a gourmet meal for dinner.

Would I recommend Plated to college students? Maybe not to students with an unlimited swipes meal plan, but for anyone who’s planning to fend for themselves for at least a couple of meals per week, I think Plated is an excellent option. Whether it rekindles or introduces you to the joy of cooking, Plated is healthy, easy, fresh, tasty, and—I’d say—fun!

*I’d like to thank the Plated team for offering these two meals free of charge in exchange for a review!

You Won’t Want to Miss Beat’s New Weekday Lunch

Published on October 25, 2016 by The Crimson CraveLeave a comment

By Saranya Vijaykumar ’18 and Audrey Thorne ’19

Everyone is on the hunt for good food during the strike, and we finally found the perfect spot. We personally hadn’t had good meal in two weeks, so when Beat Brasserie offered to share their state of the art lunch with us, we could not resist.

Saranya had never been to Beat before, so she was pleasantly surprised by the open layout. Especially compared to the crammed restaurants in most restaurants in the square, Beat feels very spacious. Since it was lunch, it was not too packed, which meant we could hear each other over the other conversations and the jazz music that played softly in the background without extra effort. They closed off their extra seating area with a decorative light purple curtain that added to the upscale but alternative aesthetic and made the space feel full.

The service was incredibly friendly and helpful, checking in to see when we wanted to order what and how we liked our food. Our waitress also gave great food and drink recommendations. She said that they like to keep the minimalist decorations and the creative menu seasonal.

First we ordered tuna tartare and, upon the waitress’s suggestion, the buffalo cauliflower for appetizers.

The buffalo cauliflower was spicy, probably had the strongest flavor of any dish we had. Audrey liked how the sweetness of the cauliflower balanced out the buffalo sauce. The yogurt dipping sauce also neutralized the spicy exterior well.

The tuna tartare had a delectable texture and was served in a surprisingly large portion. The mayonnaise balanced well with the tuna and the gherkins, leaving the flavor light yet full. The textures of the fresh tuna and the crispy bread played well off of each other.

Beat definitely proved a great spot for 21st birthdays and nice meals with parents. The cocktails are designed by the same man who creates the cocktails at the Beehive, both creative and delicious. The waitress recommended the Kombucha Collins, a mix of Letherbee gin, rhubarb, lemon, and turmeric-ginger kombucha, and the American Breed, which is made of bourbon, St. Elder Elderflower liqueur, and apple cider and tastes a bit stronger than the Kombucha. The later was more for those who enjoy the taste of alcohol, while she said the earlier had a more mild, ginger flavor. The cocktails are definitely some of the most creative in the Square. In terms of wine, she suggested the Flying Cloud, a sauvignon blanc with fruity accents.

The nonalcoholic drinks were great too. Audrey enjoyed the lightness of the lemonade, which washed her palate clean well between dishes and neutralized the spice of the buffalo cauliflower, and Saranya thought the iced tea was very well-brewed. Both tasted fresh and not too sweet, a difficult feat for both lemonade and iced tea, and both were served with a slice of lemon.

Lastly, it was time for the entrees. Saranya got the rabbit pasta, cooked in vegetable broth with kale, and Audrey added chicken to the Aztec bowl.

The rabbit pasta was amazing. Even with its slightly smaller portion it was filling. The rabbit was cooked perfectly and Saranya also liked that it was cooked in vegetable broth, so that it wasn’t overwhelmingly meaty. The balance between rabbit, kale, and pasta was also great. There was more rabbit than pasta, which added to the rich flavor and texture of the dish.

The Aztec bowl had well cooked quinoa, which had a nice texture between soft and crunchy. On top of the quinoa was a slice of avocado and a generous quantity of squash. In the salad, in another third of the bowl, were multicolored cherry tomatoes, green beans, spinach, beet slivers, and corn. The spinach was flavorful with a neutral sauce. The beet slivers were sweet, with a naturally strong flavour and a slight crunch. The multicolored tomatoes served as another burst of flavour. The corn, cut right off the cob, was sweet and tied the vegetables together well. In the last third of the bowl was the chicken add on in a delicious green sauce. All parts of the dish meshed well together and tasted wonderful separately. With such a generous portion, she was able to get the protein and veggies she missed during the strike, and have almost half leftover for later.

In terms of a student lunch, nothing compared to the bowls. The Beat Hotel offers a variety of healthy and delicious bowls that are incredibly filling and reasonably priced. These bowls are a healthy alternative to burrito bowls and salads, for around $14 with fresh vegetables and a variety of add ons, from falafel to skirt steak to tuna, for $2-9.

The two women sitting next to us remarked that when the Beat first opened up, nobody wanted to try to the bowls because it seemed so informal, but that day most everyone in the restaurant had ordered one. It really is the best deal on the menu

Alive and Kicking’s Lobster Sandwich: A Subtle Twist on the Classic

Published on October 25, 2016October 25, 2016 by The Crimson CraveLeave a comment

By Estefania Lahera ‘20

I am a person that loves superlatives. Going through one of Food & Wine’s or Thrillist’s or Eater’s lists of, say, the best falafel in America and looking for a spot mentioned that’s in my city to try it out for myself is probably my favorite pastime.

Upon moving to Boston, I took it upon myself to put all those lists to the test and find the city’s best lobster roll.

Most of the lists echoed each other: Neptune’s Oyster, James Hook + Co, Yankee Lobster, Island Creek Oyster Bar, B & G Oysters etc.

But something was odd. I was looking for the best lobster roll, but on many lists there was tangential addition: a lobster sandwich, from Alive and Kicking Lobsters right here in Cambridge!

It was a bit odd and I put it off until the end of my list. After a month or so, however, I had already tried all the most obvious choices (for the record, my money’s on Island Creek Oyster Bar) so in order to absolutely exhaust every possibility, to leave no room for doubt, it was time to try this wannabe sandwich, this pseudo-lobster roll.

The more I researched, I saw that the sandwich was the subject of decent acclaim (as most restaurants I visit are, because I don’t want to waste my time on mediocrity). I also found out that it’s within walking distance of Harvard! A long walk, about half an hour, but still walking distance, and altogether rather pleasant on a day with good weather as the past couple have been.

The restaurant is small, more like a “lobster shack” than an actual restaurant, but I think that’s part of its charm. It’s not meant to be a restaurant, it’s meant to be a source of really, really fresh seafood. Inside there’s a display case of fresh seafood, a freezer of things you can take home like chowder and ice cream (random!), while picnic tables are outside. They don’t give water, not even from the tap, which makes me sad; you have to buy it. However, they do make their own sodas in house, which is cool.

You order at the counter, and they bring the food out. The price changes with the seasons, with summer being the cheapest, but when I went the roll, which included a bag of chips, was about $17. It was pricey for a sandwich, but actually cheaper than the average lobster roll.

Now onto the substance of the article: the actual food itself.

I was impressed by the quality of the chips: no preservatives, just pure potato in peanut oil and salt, nothing hiding in the ingredients list. Since the company didn’t make the chips, I don’t think reviewing them is really relevant, but suffice to say that chips are rarely bad.

The sandwich bread was generic white sandwich bread, but toasted a beautiful, light brown and actually not soggy, which pleased me. The lobster meat was plentiful, fresh, and not overwhelmed in mayo, which I appreciated. But what it lacked in mayo it made up in globs of butter, which I did not feel were necessary. I couldn’t taste the butter anyway, so there was really no point in it being there. If you like the sweet, slightly one-dimensional flavor of lobster, great. That’s a common flaw I’ve noticed in most lobster rolls, so I can’t fault this sandwich in particular, but still. Seasoning.

Compared to lobster rolls? This was definitely equivalent to many of the lobster rolls I’ve had. The toasted bread was a welcome twist on the original roll, and I found something to be appreciated about a higher lobster to carb ratio. Rarely do rolls have a nice crust, and there is a higher probability that they will be stale.

Given this overall pleasant experience, it begs the question: why aren’t lobster sandwiches a thing? Why only lobster rolls?

But as long as Alive and Kicking stays in operations I guess it doesn’t matter. One good lobster sandwich in this city is enough for me.

Worth the Hype? The Craigie on Main Burger

Published on October 17, 2016October 21, 2016 by The Crimson CraveLeave a comment

By Estefania Lahera ‘20

This burger is over 6 years old, and you’d have thought the hype would have died down already.

But no.

This burger is still as highly recommended on the food internet; indeed, it has even been elevated into an icon of the Boston food scene. Articles by Eater, Boston Magazine, a cover on Bon Apetit Magazine, and more, all attest to its greatness.

But when was the last time that this icon was objectively reviewed?

Instead of accepting its greatness, I felt it was my responsibility as a foreigner to the Boston food scene, immune to the hype and build up, and see for myself.

If you know anything about this burger, you know that they only serve 18 every night and only on the bar side of the restaurant. Thus, I specifically called two nights before asking for a reservation on that side of the restaurant. Dedication, if I do say so myself.

I went on a rainy Sunday. It was a good day for a burger, the sort of day when you just want something warm and comforting, classic but not boring.

“We know you want the burger,” the hostess says when I arrive, ready for me, “do you want us to put one on hold for you now?”

Yes. Yes, I do.

Excellent service.

But seriously though, the service was friendly and efficient. The restaurant is small, which makes it easier for the staff to look after you properly. They are knowledgeable about the menu, and willing to offer their opinions if you ask, which I always do.

PRO TIP: Sit on the bar side and get access to the full dining room menu as well as the more affordable bar menu. And the burger, of course.

The bread basket, by the way, was excellent. I judge a restaurant by its bread basket, because it’s an integral part of the experience. It the restaurant serves stale, inferior bread, it might as well not give anything at all. I’d rather not have bread than regret biting into a dense, coarse brick. Thankfully, Craigie’s 3 varieties, a lovely crusty French baguette, a more ciabatta like roll, and a flax-speckled, nutty multigrain, were all fabulous. My favorite was the multigrain with flax for its depth of flavor, though you can’t go wrong with the other two.

We also order the octopus. It was a solid dish with a nice punch of flavor, a sort of smoky paprika flavor that worked well. Was it mind blowing, stunning, omigosh I’ve never eaten anything better in my life? No. But I think it was the only time in my life that I’ve had octopus cooked perfectly, absolutely ZERO chewiness. And that is admirable.

Now, onto what you’ve been waiting for: the burger.

This restaurant has a burger cult following. An hour into our meal, having arrived the moment the restaurant opened, we hear the bartender call out: “only one burger left!” and the entire restaurant cheered.

Clearly as popular as ever, this burger sold out within two hours of opening that night!

And it must be a very complex burger, because it took forever to come out, long enough for me to go through an entire bread basket (because I’m a carb-lover and I’m not ashamed).

I waited patiently, and it finally arrived.

Let’s just stop and appreciate that for a moment. It’s definitely a looker, is it not?

Now, the most important part: taste.

It was….

A burger.

Yeah.

That’s about it.

It was good, because how can a burger be bad? But was it the transformational experience that everyone promised? No, not really. Everything, the bun and the bacon and the grind of beef, are all made in house. If you’re going to make it in house, you would do well to make it less generic in my opinion. The bread was good, but it wasn’t special. Why not make the outside crispy if you can, and the inside soft and pillowy? A nice squashy bun is lovely and works, but I could get the same at the supermarket, even organic at whole foods. The bun was good, sure, good quality and it held its shape and structure reasonably well, but that’s all.

The ketchup was fine, a nice spice to it, not memorable. I’m also not a ketchup person.

The meat was very, very medium. It lacked a good sear, and was quite pink throughout the center. The flavor was also lackluster. If they’re not going to have enough salt and seasoning, at least make sure the beef grind has enough complexity to stand alone. But it was just a temperate beef flavor, which was fine as I personally like the taste of meat. But if could have been better, you know?

The cheese I couldn’t even taste, so I can’t really judge, but the lettuce and other dressings (a sort of pickled onion) were nice. That’s sort of all I can say. Nice. The bacon, which was house cured, was also good. Again, good. Not great. But good.

The salad complimented the burger, but was by no means necessary.

The fries, to my surprise, were excellent! Big, chunky wedges cooked perfectly, with a soft creamy inside, a super crispy, crackly outside, and aggressive but refined seasoning. Why couldn’t the burger be cooked like this?!

The final verdict?

Go to Craigie on Main if you can afford the splurge, but ignore the hype and get something more interesting. Go for the bread, the staff, the chance to try something awesome. The menu has so many interesting ideas. phytoplankton garganelli? What is that? duck rilletes? Sounds very classical French but I’m sure they’ve taken an innovative spin on it.

I, personally, will be back for the whole pigs head.

The Hourly: A New Oyster House in Harvard Square

Published on October 17, 2016October 17, 2016 by The Crimson CraveLeave a comment

By Hayoung Chang ’18

With the coming and going of many restaurants in Harvard Square, a new bar dedicated to oysters has opened it doors in the last month. Named The Hourly, this oyster bar is owned by The Grafton Group, which already boasts four other restaurants in the area: Grafton Street Pub and Grill, PARK Restaurant, Russell House Tavern, and Temple Bar.

With midterms in full swing and the seemingly endless continuation of the HUDS strike, I decided I needed a pick me up. Since I love oysters and seafood, I thought what could be a better option than the new oyster bar? On Wednesday night, a friend and I headed over to 15 Dunster Street with high hopes.

Upon entering, a friendly hostess showed us to our seats. What was immediately striking was the cozy yet sophisticated ambience. The lighting was on point (as they say) with a soft golden glow illuminating the bar and seating area from an overhead light that could only be described as artsy.

While the restaurant was not too crowded, all the bar seats were taken by those sipping cocktails. They had a separate menu for their raw bar, on which the oysters were listed based on origin. I ordered one each from Summerside (Canada), Cotuit and Cuttyhunk (Massachusetts). For our entrees, I ordered The Hourly Burger, and my friend the Crispy Goat Cheese Sandwich.

While waiting for our food, the waitress brought out the restaurant’s original salt and vinegar chips. Both crispy and delightfully seasoned, the chips were the perfect finger food to stimulate our appetites.

Once the oysters came out, the waitress kindly explained to us where each one came from. I tried the Summerside first, and was immediately engulfed in a burst of flavor. It started with an oceanic flavor then a slightly creamy lingering and a spectacularly fresh and clean finish. The oyster meat itself was so pleasurably tangy and juicy that it made me salivate for more. The two from Massachusetts were more briny but the combination with the red sauce made for a real delight.

Then our entrees came. The first thing that struck us was the size; the plates were absolutely enormous, piled high with fries and greens next to our burger and sandwich. The burger itself was gargantuan as well, the kind that you cannot possibly fit into your mouth to take a bite. The umami flavor of the meat and bacon blended well with the melted cheese and crispy onions. The fluffiness of the brioche bun contrasted nicely with the crunch of fried onions to leave a savory albeit slightly greasy aftertaste.

Overall the service was excellent as the waitress continually checked in on how our meal was, and the entrees arrived swiftly. While the burger was delicious, it was the oysters that stole the show with its exceptional freshness. I would recommend The Hourly as a nice date night option as the ambience contributes to a cozy and intimate mood. I will definitely be coming back to try the other options in their raw bar!

Location: 15 Dunster Street, Cambridge, MA

Reservations: OpenTable

Overall Rating: 4.5/5

Food: 4/5

Service: 5/5

Ambience: 5/5

Daedalus Restaurant: Forgotten Myth or Living Legend?

Published on October 10, 2016October 10, 2016 by The Crimson CraveLeave a comment

By Siqi Liu’19

from-harvard-square — Photo From Boston Guide

Before I’d actually ever stepped foot into Daedalus, it was the name that first intrigued me. I remember walking past it almost every day my freshmen year and musing at the creamy wooden sign hanging above its door. The restaurant advertises New American meals, but “Daedalus” calls to mind the Greek mythology of Daedalus and Icarus. According to the myth, Daedalus was a skilled craftsman who creates a pair of wings for him and his son to escape the tower in which they were imprisoned. The fact that this restaurant claims to draw upon such a timeless tale seems to set up a promise of attaining new heights, of innovation, and of tradition. As someone who believes in the power of names, I decided I needed to see for myself whether it lives up to its namesake.

It was a rainy Saturday night when my friend and I showed up at the front steps of the dim-lit restaurant. The whole place was set up like a pub, with a bar upstairs and small, square wooden tables that tried to convey an aura nonchalant urban chicness. There was no music, just the muffled chatter of diners sealing in the intimate ambience of the place. The host led us to a table in the corner upstairs, and we immediately proceeded to squint at a specials and regular menu. Nothing really caught our eye in the appetizers menu; it offered some generic options that vacillated between overpriced American pub food and popular Italian appetizers. Craving pasta, I ordered the seafood pasta special. My friend ordered the mushroom risotto.

When our food arrived, I was quite impressed by the presentation. The green asparagus and the pink shrimp nestled neatly atop my fat bed of fettucine, glistening with bits of red bacon, reminded me of spring—an odd choice for an autumn special, but still visually appealing. The mushroom risotto, in my opinion, came in the perfect proportion. The Portobello, spinach, and parmesan weaved into one another like some intricate knitting project. We were excited to start our meal.

At first bite, the white wine cream sauce was divine. The parmesan and smoked bacon added a tangy note to the sauce that made the flavor linger in my mouth. The shrimp and asparagus, which were both extremely fresh, balanced out the heaviness of the pasta itself. The only complaint that I had was the bacon fat did make the pasta a bit greasy.

As a fan of risotto in general, I was delighted to try my friend’s mushroom risotto (much at his chagrin). The first thought that came to mind when I encountered the flavor was parsley! I’m not quite sure why the dish had such an overpowering parsley flavor, and I’m not sure whether it worked. But I thoroughly enjoyed the tender mushrooms basking in light truffle oil. My friend absolutely adored the cheese, which gave a kick to what could otherwise have degenerated into a bland risotto dish.

Throughout the meal, our waitress checked in on us maybe once. I didn’t mind the lack of attentive service much because our food did get to the table rather quickly, and I enjoyed my company. So, did Daedalus live up to its lofty namesake? Not exactly, but I’d still recommend it for a casual night out for anyone who is too lazy to venture out of the square.

Daedalus

Location: 45.5 Mt Auburn St, Cambridge, MA 02138

Reservation: Call (617) 349-0071

Overall Rating: 3/5

Food: 3.5/5

Service: 3/5

Atmosphere: 4/5

En Boca: A Welcome Addition to Harvard Square

Published on October 10, 2016October 10, 2016 by br126Leave a comment

By Caroline Gentile ’17

Logo from En Boca Website

As of late, the food scene in Harvard Square has been bleak. With the onset of construction and subsequent mass exodus of restaurants, there have been significantly fewer options to choose from. Add into the mix that HUDS is on strike, and the options further dwindle. Thankfully, as of Thursday, October 6th, there is a new restaurant in the square: En Boca.

Originally in the building that used to be Sandrine’s, En Boca was purchased by restaurant developers Bill Goodwin and Peter Sarmanian, who are also behind two well-known Irish pubs in Boston, in March of 2015. Unlike their other restaurants, En Boca is far from an Irish pub. Goodwin’s goal in creating En Boca was to serve “creative, farm-to-table food with a Mediterranean influence” in an ambiance that is “classic with a modern feel,:

Crimson Crave co-President, Richa Chaturvedi ‘18, another friend, and I decided to check it out. Upon walking into the restaurant, we were struck by how beautifully decorated it is. We immediately felt transported from the grind of the Harvard Bubble, despite being a stone’s throw from the River Houses. We sat by the large window overlooking Holyoke Street, which was truly a treat, even with the construction across the street.

New Menu.PNG — Menu from En Boca Website

En Boca’s menu mostly consists of small plates; our server recommended we order three or four plates per person. “It’s all about the sharing experience,” Goodwin explained to me over the phone, before I even set foot in the restaurant. With this in mind, my companions and I ordered seven small plates, and one of their larger, yet still shareable, dishes.

At En Boca, everything comes out to the table as soon as it is ready. Before we knew it, our table was adorned with several small plates. The first thing we sampled were the patatas bravas, which were paired with aioli, tomato, and sweet pepper. The potatoes were cooked perfectly; the skin was crispy, but the potato itself was tender. To me, the highlight of the dish were the sauces, though. The sweet pepper sauce and creamy aioli not only complemented each other, but also the saltiness of the potatoes. Overall, this dish was delicious and simple. I imagine it will be a popular menu item as time goes on!

Next up were the crispy brussel sprouts. It seems as though the chefs at En Boca have realized the truth about vegetables, particularly brussel sprouts: they are much, much tastier when paired with bacon. The brussel sprouts themselves were beautifully browned and lived up to their description as crispy, but I stand by my assertion the bacon was the star of the show. Of all the small plates, my dining companions and I agreed that this was one of the best.

One of our fellow diners would argue that the best dish was the chicken liver pâté. In fact, she refused to share it because she liked it so much, and claimed it was some of the best pâté she has ever had!

Another standout dish was the local halloumi cheese. For anyone who has never tried halloumi, ordering it at En Boca is the perfect opportunity. The small plate gives you just a taste of this delicious, salty cheese along with notes of hazelnut. After your first bite, you’ll wish this dish came with more than just three pieces.

The charred cauliflower, while not quite a standout, was still quite delicious. Lightly fried, the cauliflower itself was not particularly flavorful, but the accompanying sultanas and labneh, which is basically a creamy mediterranean aioli, really made the dish. In fact, the labneh also paired extremely well with the falafel. Without dipping it in the labneh, we found that the falafel was too dense and dry, but it was elevated to new levels once we realized this unexpected yet harmonious combination.

Of all the dishes, the baked farm egg with chorizo dressing and polenta was our least favorite. Though it sounded good on paper, this dish lacked the texture and flavor that the other dishes so beautifully capitulated. The egg was well-cooked (complete with plenty of yolk porn), but blended in too much with the polenta, resulting in a mushy texture and bland flavor. The chorizo was more salty than it was flavorful, and did nothing to salvage the dish. However, I liked the idea of a poached egg on the menu, and hope that the chefs will find a better way to serve it.

Our final savory course was the half roasted chicken with a sunchoke reduction. It seems as though the chefs had saved the best for last. After all, there are few things better than flavorful, juicy chicken covered in crunchy, briny skin. The sunchoke reduction amplified the chicken’s flavor perfectly. Though we were already pretty full by the time we got our final course, the chicken was one of the best dishes we had, and we made sure to make room. However, since this dish was advertised as one to share, we think that the presentation could have better reflected the sharing aspect. The chicken was served on the bone. In order to share it, we had to cut into it with our own utensils, which, if you were not dining with close friends or family, could get awkward. Given how delicious it is, leaving people to their own devices to cut the chicken could create a hunger games-esque situation. If this chicken were sliced before it were served, then it would probably be more socially acceptable to eat in a group!

In terms of drinks, En Boca is technically a wine bar, and boasts an extensive wine list, including plenty of fine wines by the glass. However, only one member of our group was over 21, and she does not like wine. Thankfully, En Boca offers many other options, including cocktails, beers, and ciders. She decided on the strawberry peach fizz cocktail. After her first sip, she decided it was both too sweet and too strong; the overwhelmingly saccharine aftertaste did not mask the taste of alcohol. Upon noticing that our friend was not drinking her drink, however, our server offered to get her another one that she might prefer.

This is just one example of the outstanding service at En Boca. While aspects of the menu are still a work in progress, one thing that En Boca has mastered is its service. Our server, Isabella, was polite, knowledgeable, and attentive. She truly made our dining experience as enjoyable as possible.

As for dessert, chef Bryan Jacobs, who used to be the private chef for both George Bush and the Anheuser-Busch family, is still experimenting with the menu. He served us a palate-cleansing dessert as well as an Egyptian cake. The palate-cleanser consisted of a quince sorbet with tahini shortbread, hazelnut and mint oils, and chantilly. While on paper, this combination may sound strange, it was one of the most unique desserts we had ever sampled; light, refreshing, sweet, and tangy.

The egyptian cake, made with semolina, and run, had a wonderfully crumbly texture without being dry. To achieve this texture while still maintaining the flavors of the cake, chef Jacobs used a brown butter reduction as his base, instead of the tried-and-true method of creaming butter and sugar together. Paired with the the airy chantilly, made using an oxygen gun, this dessert was also light, and the perfect amount of sweet. Though at this point in the meal, we had sampled at least nine different dishes, we were not completely stuffed to the point of feeling like we needed to lay still for hours. To achieve desserts that are both decadent and light is quite a feat, and chef Jacobs certainly accomplished it.

Two hours and $103 later (a reasonable price for such a high-quality dinner for three people), we left En Boca, stomachs full of delicious food and a desire to come back soon. While some of the small plates were not quite perfect, the chicken and the desserts were more than enough to keep us coming back for more. Before En Boca officially opened its doors, Goodwin acknowledged his excitement about opening and “correcting our mistakes as we go.” With its outstanding service and talent in the kitchen, En Boca has a great deal of potential, and we can’t wait to see how it evolves in the coming months.

Location: 8 Holyoke Street, Cambridge, MA

Reservations: OpenTable

Standout dishes: Half-Roasted Chicken, Crispy Brussel Sprouts, Patatas Bravas

Overall Rating: 4.5/5

Food: 4/5

Service: 5/5

Atmosphere: 5/5

Shojo: Modern Asian Fusion from the Center of Chinatown

Published on April 17, 2016April 17, 2016 by br126Leave a comment

By Bovey Rao ‘19

It is obvious by now that I have a profound love of Asian food. While I am unfortunately underwhelmed by the Chinese food in Boston, I adore the prevalence of other Asian cuisines. Even more intriguing to me are Asian fusion restaurants. Given my glowing review of Asian fusion powerhouse, Mei Mei, it is only natural that I visit Shojo, another Asian fusion icon in Chinatown. As they prepare to expand with a ramen shop, Ruckus Noodles, Shojo is a dining destination worth a visit.

In the center of Chinatown, there are a plethora of delicious Asian dining options from Chinese and Japanese hot pot to dim sum to traditional Chinese dumplings. Why would anyone go to the hipster joint with rock music blaring and Ip Man 2 on the TV? I asked myself this questions as I walked into Shojo with a few companions. It had a small dining room but was packed with a young crowd. After being seated, I glossed over the menu and was overwhelmed the number of delicious options. A waitress offered her insights and informed us of the specials for the day.

Starting with an order of their famous suckling pig bao, I could scarcely hold myself back when they arrived. Whenever I see pork bao on the menu, I will tend to order them as one of my favorite dishes. Biting into these pork buns, I was simultaneously enthused and slightly underwhelmed. The tender pork meshed with the crisp cucumber and sweet steamed bun. However, the overtly smoky barbeque sauce was overpowering and prevented me from fully enjoying the bao.

Our Shadowless Duck Fat Fries came out next. This dish has stood out amongst the crowd of starches when it won Boston Magazine’s best potato course. Crunchy fries with a mildly spiced mapo tofu, thick cheese sauce, and light scallions. The decadence of this dish is truly laudable as we devoured it in a hurry. My single qualm was that I wished the mapo tofu spicier to balance with the creaminess of the cheese. However, I truly respect the creativity and depth to this Asian and American amalgamation.

The peanut sauce ramen and the daily special arrived concurrently. With an eclectic mix of peanut sauce, grapes, and cucumbers, the ramen was slightly convoluted. However, the flavors surprisingly meshed excellently and evoked a sense of childhood nostalgia. The daily special of seafood squid ink ramen was visually impactful with the jet-black noodles. With a light creamy sauce, the collection of scallops, mussels, clams, and calamari was elegantly and subtly flavored. I was quite upset that this dish is not a menu staple, as they elevated ramen to another level. To finish, I had the kimchi fried rice, a traditional rendition with aromatic jasmine rice. Topped with an expertly fried egg, it was a savory and spicy masterpiece.

During the course of the meal, I was enthralled with the exceptional bar service. With bartenders mixing and shaking complex cocktails, I lamented being underage. However, I strongly encourage visiting the bar as there was a constant stream of activity. Loud and hip, you must find your way to Shojo for exceptional Asian fusion cuisine. There are incredible restaurants in Chinatown, and Shojo stands out as the wild little brother.

Shojo

Location: 9 Tyler St, Boston, MA 02111

Reservation: Reserve or Call (617)-423-7888

Stand out dishes: Shadowless Duck Fat Fries, Seafood Squid Ink Ramen

Overall Rating: 4.5/5

Food: 4/5

Service: 5/5

Atmosphere: 4/5 (Loud)

Feel free to contact the writer at boveyrao@college.harvard.edu with food musings, dining requests, or any restaurant advice!