harvard square

Flour Settles in Harvard Square on Nov 1st

Published on October 31, 2016November 1, 2016 by The Crimson CraveLeave a comment

By Bovey Rao ‘19

Flour Bakery and Café will be open starting Tuesday, November 1^st at 114 Mount Auburn Street from 7a-8p (based on website hours).

This past Sunday, Flour Bakery and Café held an open house event for their new Harvard Square location, and CrimsonCrave was invited to attend!

Entering Flour, we were promptly greeted by the founder, Joanne Chang, as she shook hands and welcomed everyone in. I instantly noticed the classic menu in the back and the counter that is normally lined with pastries like in the other locations. On the left, there was the ubiquitous wooden table alongside shelves stocked with cookbooks and prepared pastries like biscotti. To the right, there is the sandwich counter and seats alongside the windows and a small alcove with tables. Immediately, I was impressed with the modern space and relaxed environment. Natural light poured into the café as it bustled with activity. Friends, family, and staff happily engaged in conversation, while snacking on savory and sweet treats prepared by Flour.

While I was exploring the space, staff frequently came by and introduced themselves. Despite this being an open house, the staff was happy to converse with the guests and attentively monitored the many platters. The general manager was clearly excited about opening this store as she gestured for us to try the food that was prepared.

Savory items ranged from pizzas to their signature sandwiches and large bowls of their salads. As I began sampling through the selection, I noted the soba salad and the stuffed breads as some of my favorites. The roasted lamb sandwich with goat cheese and tomato chutney is one of my old favorites.

For sweets, there was a wide selection of Flour’s specialties such as muffins, brownies, cupcakes, mini tarts, and their famous sticky buns. These expertly crafted treats can satisfy any sweet tooth as there is such a large selection. My favorites include the pumpkin muffins, pain aux raisins, and obviously the freshly baked sticky buns.

My criticism of Flour was the size; however, this may be due to the activity and sheer number of people at the store. When I sat to talk to my friends, the alcove seating area was relatively cramped, so this Flour location is likely better suited for smaller groups. Most of the tables are designed for two people, which makes Flour excellent for breakfast or lunch meetings with a friend. At these tables, I conversed with some incredibly individuals, so I included their picture.

If the open house was a trial event for Flour Harvard Square, I can only say that it was a tremendous success. The staff were warm and welcoming, and the food was clearly prepared with care. I am beyond excited for the official opening of Flour and welcome it to Harvard Square.

However, these are simply my musings, so for a true assessment, you must visit it yourself!

Author’s Note (Bovey Rao)

Two years ago, I was in Boston for a high school research program. While working on my final paper, I tried to see the city that I had essentially ignored over the course of the program. After a productive morning at the Boston Public Library, I went for a lunch break and began wandering the streets of Boston. For me in high school, I was not yet the intense food lover as I would describe myself today, but I still sought a good lunch. While wandering the vibrant neighborhoods of Back Bay, I stumbled upon Flour Bakery and Café. Seeing the long line, I was enticed by the promise of a popular lunch destination. After receiving my lamb sandwich, I found a seat at the communal wood table, took a bite, and the rest is history.

Flour Bakery and Café has been one of the staples of my time at Harvard. While the nearest branch is near Kendall Square and MIT, I frequently made the trek for lunch with friends, grabbing birthday cakes, or indulging in a sweet morsel (normally sticky buns or banana bread). In my countless visits to Flour, I can happily say that I only have positive memories associated with the space. When I heard Flour was coming to Harvard Square, I could barely contain myself with excitement.

Last week, I became communicating with Joanne Chang about interviewing her about the new Flour, and she graciously agreed. Furthermore, she invited me, Richa, and Caroline to the open house on Sunday. Joanne Chang is the founder of Flour Bakery and Café and a Harvard graduate in Applied Math and Economics in ’91. She maintains a strong connection with Harvard by teaching lectures for the Science and Cooking series. This past Friday, I was blessed with the opportunity to have a conversation with her so we could discuss the path to opening the Harvard Square branch of Flour. Then on Sunday, we attended the open house to have a glimpse of what was to come. I cannot be unbiased when I talk about Flour due to my history of positive experiences, but I think it will suffice to say that I am exuberant to showcase the opening of my favorite bakery and café from Boston in Harvard Square.

Much love to Marcella Park and Cynthia Gu, who visited Flour with me this Sunday.

A Conversation with Joanne Chang

Published on October 31, 2016October 31, 2016 by The Crimson CraveLeave a comment

By Bovey Rao ’19, Richa Chaturvedi ’18, and Caroline Gentile ’17

BR: Could you introduce yourself?

JC: My name is Joanne Chang, and I am opening Flour Harvard Square.

BR: What are your plans for the new location?

JC: We are at 114 Mt. Auburn, this used to be the old Chili’s building. I don’t know if you guys were around when it was here. When I went to school here, it was a Chili’s, and I don’t remember what the rest of the building was. We started looking at this space about a year ago, when Harvard said that they were going to renovating the building, and possibly opening the bottom floor for a café. We were excited because we wanted to open a new store and this seemed like a great location.

BR: How did you start your baking journey from Harvard student to applied math concentrator to consulting?

JC: It sounds like you know it (haha). I studied math and economics here and graduated in ’91 and worked in management consulting at the Monitor Group for two years. I had always loved cooking and baking and eating. I cooked a lot at home and baked recreationally. At Harvard, I actually baked and sold cookies at the Leverett House Grille in my Junior and Senior Year. I didn’t think this would be a career for me. I did consulting for two years and unlike a lot of other consultants who went to business school, I decided to try cooking professionally to see what that’d be like. I ended up loving it. I started on the line as a garde manger, working on appetizers. Once in the restaurant world, I started to hone my interest as I really preferred pastry over savory, so I got a job at a bakery. Then I came back to the square and was the pastry chef at Rialto for a few years and went to New York City to help with the opening of Payard Patisserie. After a while, I came back to Boston to be the pastry chef at Mistral and then opened Flour.

BR: How do you feel about Rialto closing?

JC: It’s such a bummer. It had such a great long run, but I’m excited about who’s going in there. Mike Pagliarini is an amazing chef and used to work with my husband at Via Matta. He’s a great friend of ours.

BR: Do you have any favorite memories of the dining halls at Harvard?

JC: I loved eating here, and this was before the dining service revamp. I know that you guys have all these special nights for food. I was involved with the dining program through periphery and heard about them. I went back to Leverett with my roommate, and there was just such great variety. When I was here, I don’t know if the food was amazing, but I just loved it. All the different types of food and I just liked it.

RC: I think you are catching us at a good time because the strike just ended.

JC: What’d you do during the strike?s

RC+CG: Spent a lot of money.

JC: Did they offer any food options?

BR+RC+CG: There was frozen food at first, that was pretty bad, but got a lot better as time went on.

JC: Did they reimburse you or anything?

CG: They gave us some money that we could spend at their cafés and at a few restaurants in the square. I definitely took advantage of it when I went to Henrietta’s.

RC: During midterms, we don’t realize how much we rely on HUDS for food, so it’s really nice that they are back.

JC: Two years ago, when I went back to Leverett, one of the ladies still recognized us, and we hugged and all. They really have a great staff.

BR: Did you have any dining hall hacks?

JC: We didn’t have as much selection back then. There are so many things to choose from now. It was a hot bar and a small salad bar with just lettuce, cucumbers, and carrots, so I don’t have any dining hacks.

RC: For your cookie business, how did you go about doing that?

JC: There’s a kitchen in the basement of G tower. It was tiny, but I would walk to the Stop and Shop, where the Microcenter is now. I would buy flour, butter, sugar, and chocolate chips and walk back with as much as I could carry. I would make batter downstairs in the kitchen and bake it off every night. I sold them to the Grille for 25 cents, and they sold it to the students 3 for a dollar.

RC: Do you feel you use your applied math background in your cooking today?

JC: I’m sure I do without really doing it. In applied math, you learn how to think critically, so it’s been very helpful. And it seems crazy, but just knowing basic math skills are helpful. If you have a big recipe and need to reduce it 8%, to be able to move easily when doing that kind of stuff makes things a lot easier. So that’s not really an applied math thing, but doing the accounting, it is helpful.

BR: What was your favorite place to eat in the square?

JC: We would go to Uno’s. I was dating a guy, and we would go to Uno’s. I would get the spinoccoli pizza and a salad. I loved that. We also went to Grendel’s Den, if that’s still around. We didn’t go out a lot because all of our meals were paid for.

RC: What about today?

JC: It was Rialto, and now I really like Café Sushi, even though it’s not really in the square. I like Giulia too even though it’s not really in the square. I haven’t been to Alden and Harlow in a while, but I’ve enjoyed it too. The Square has changed so much with so many places like Café Algiers even closing. I’m sad about that.

RC: I feel like it is getting more upscale.

JC: I feel like it’s getting more chainy with places like Chipotle and b.Good. B.Good went into the sushi place, which I didn’t expect, but b. Good is a good chain.

CG: I know there are a lot of bakery/cafes in this area, so what do you think separates Flour from Tatte, Crema, or Starbucks?

JC: I think many things. I think our food is awesome. We take so much pride in our food as we put it through the “Mom Test.” If you don’t want to serve it to your mom, then don’t serve it to the guest. So we empower all the staff to look at the food in that way, and this all started from when I opened the first location in the South End. My mom worked at the bakery because we were short-staffed. It was my first business venture, and she wanted to help me settle in for the first three months. She was always a little skeptical about the career change from consulting, so while she was excited about the opening, I wanted to make sure that everything we prepared, she was proud of. That was 16 years ago and we still talk about it today. At yesterday’s staff meeting, we talked to everyone about the mom test or girlfriend test or whoever’s opinion means something to you. You want imagine handing something you made to them with a sense of ownership over this is my job and this is what I made.

We also differentiate ourselves through our service, warm and welcoming hospitality. It is a huge part of who we are. Do you know the TV series Cheers? “Where everybody knows your name?” That was something that impacted me as somewhere that everyone knew you, and we wanted to replicate that here. My hope is that the staff gets to know 50 to 80 percent of the people who come in. We want them to be able to greet you and know your order. I think that we have a big emphasis on making sure that the whole of Flour is working in a really strong way. Everything we do we want to be guest facing from the food to the service. We spend a lot of time talking internally about how we want a really good working environment. For some of the people, Flour is their first time job, so we want to teach people this is how you work and become part of the team. We have a really strong internal commitment to teach the staff, so everything melds together to have a great place. The other cafes in the square are great, but I think everyone here is just more aware of the guest and the food.

CG: What’s your favorite thing on the menu?

JC: Actually, my favorite savory thing on the menu is a new salad we have on the menu. It is a buckwheat noodle salad with tofu, kabocha squash, fresno peppers, and a nori sesame vinaigrette. We also have a hummus banh mi, which is fabulous.

One the pastry menu, the pain aux raisins is a long-time favorite. It is a brioche spiral that has pastry cream and golden raisins. A couple years ago, we introduced the kouign amann to the menu, a butter Breton cake, which is amazing.

RC: Is there anything you’re going to roll out on the menu specially for Harvard Square?

JC: We haven’t come up with any Harvard specific specials yet because our focus now is making sure that we make sure we do everything great like the other locations. Then, we’re going to let the chefs and pastry chefs know that they are empowered to make specials. If enough people come in and say “we really want this,” then we’re going to try it.

CG: Is there a certain recipe that you had to tamper with to really perfect?

JC: I feel like every recipe requires this. We were fiddling with our croissant for the last 12 years. I inherited a recipe from Payard and just kept working and improving on it. I feel like almost every recipe requires some tampering. The blueberry muffin recipe went through so many iterations for the first ten years. We would taste it every couple of days and think about how to make it more moist, more fruity, and just improve the little things. It is about always being involved, so we taste all the time.

BR: I know you won the James Beard Award, so are there any future aspirations that you have?

JC: My focus is on making sure this location get rolled out really smoothly. Professionally, I feel like I just want to keep doing what we do well. I want the staff to be happy coming to work every day, so that is what I want to focus on because it is really important to me.

RC: Do you feel like this is a little bit of a homecoming?

JC: A little bit! It definitely is great to be back in the square. When I was here, I never really left the square; in fact, I never really left the yard and Leverett House. I only went to Currier because of my boyfriend at the time, so I went only to Leverret, Currier, and the yard. During the dining hall strike, I was wondering what everyone doing because if it had happened while I was here, I don’t know what I would have done. I stayed in my house most of the time.

It’s fun to be back and connect with students and hear what people have to say about their experience. It’s fun to know all of the places and all of the dorms. It’s been nice coming back and working with Harvard. I had my 25^th college anniversary this year with a dinner outside the Science Center. I also taught a lecture for the science and cooking class, so the professor and I went to eat at Annenberg. For me, it was Mem Hall, and it was for exams instead of a dining hall.

CG: What were the biggest challenges of opening this location?

JC: There were some obstacles regarding water because of the plumbing situation downstairs. We were originally planning on putting the bathrooms on [the right side], so the layout was challenging. It was hard to make it work, knowing that all water had to be restricted to one side of the space. It was just a logistical challenge.

Other than that, it’s been great working with Harvard as they have been super great to deal with. Construction has been going well, so hopefully, we’ll be opening on Tuesday!

RC: Are you going to be here on opening day?

JC: Definitely. I will be here on the first day to make sure everything is okay and probably stay for a while, but with the staff here from the managers to all of the chefs, we have a really great team, so I won’t do much. My coming is more to support everybody and make sure things are going well.

RC: Do you have any game day rituals for opening a restaurant?

JC: That is a really good question, but not really. In fact, I was just talking to Neil, the carpenter, who helped us open the Back Bay location. He reminded me that we opened Back Bay around 11am because we were waiting on a permit that finally came at 10. We quickly scrubbed everything clean and opened at 11, so we were just focused on getting it all going. So I don’t really have any game day rituals, but we should probably start something. We’ll keep doing what were doing.

CG: I am so excited about you guys opening because I follow you on Instagram and always see all the chef’s specials. I always think they look so good but they are so far away. Also, the Flour at Kendall was also where I had my first date with my boyfriend where we got sticky buns.

JC: Oh cool! We have had a couple marriage proposals that have happened at the bakery. A couple of them with our knowledge, so we knew what was happening. We could set up a little quiet corner for them. Others have happened to spontaneously, where they are spontaneous for us, but hopefully not for them. That’s been really cool.

BR: I think that’s it!

JC: Awesome! Feel free to take pictures and look around!

RC+CG+BR: Thank you so much for your time!

You Won’t Want to Miss Beat’s New Weekday Lunch

Published on October 25, 2016 by The Crimson CraveLeave a comment

By Saranya Vijaykumar ’18 and Audrey Thorne ’19

Everyone is on the hunt for good food during the strike, and we finally found the perfect spot. We personally hadn’t had good meal in two weeks, so when Beat Brasserie offered to share their state of the art lunch with us, we could not resist.

Saranya had never been to Beat before, so she was pleasantly surprised by the open layout. Especially compared to the crammed restaurants in most restaurants in the square, Beat feels very spacious. Since it was lunch, it was not too packed, which meant we could hear each other over the other conversations and the jazz music that played softly in the background without extra effort. They closed off their extra seating area with a decorative light purple curtain that added to the upscale but alternative aesthetic and made the space feel full.

The service was incredibly friendly and helpful, checking in to see when we wanted to order what and how we liked our food. Our waitress also gave great food and drink recommendations. She said that they like to keep the minimalist decorations and the creative menu seasonal.

First we ordered tuna tartare and, upon the waitress’s suggestion, the buffalo cauliflower for appetizers.

The buffalo cauliflower was spicy, probably had the strongest flavor of any dish we had. Audrey liked how the sweetness of the cauliflower balanced out the buffalo sauce. The yogurt dipping sauce also neutralized the spicy exterior well.

The tuna tartare had a delectable texture and was served in a surprisingly large portion. The mayonnaise balanced well with the tuna and the gherkins, leaving the flavor light yet full. The textures of the fresh tuna and the crispy bread played well off of each other.

Beat definitely proved a great spot for 21st birthdays and nice meals with parents. The cocktails are designed by the same man who creates the cocktails at the Beehive, both creative and delicious. The waitress recommended the Kombucha Collins, a mix of Letherbee gin, rhubarb, lemon, and turmeric-ginger kombucha, and the American Breed, which is made of bourbon, St. Elder Elderflower liqueur, and apple cider and tastes a bit stronger than the Kombucha. The later was more for those who enjoy the taste of alcohol, while she said the earlier had a more mild, ginger flavor. The cocktails are definitely some of the most creative in the Square. In terms of wine, she suggested the Flying Cloud, a sauvignon blanc with fruity accents.

The nonalcoholic drinks were great too. Audrey enjoyed the lightness of the lemonade, which washed her palate clean well between dishes and neutralized the spice of the buffalo cauliflower, and Saranya thought the iced tea was very well-brewed. Both tasted fresh and not too sweet, a difficult feat for both lemonade and iced tea, and both were served with a slice of lemon.

Lastly, it was time for the entrees. Saranya got the rabbit pasta, cooked in vegetable broth with kale, and Audrey added chicken to the Aztec bowl.

The rabbit pasta was amazing. Even with its slightly smaller portion it was filling. The rabbit was cooked perfectly and Saranya also liked that it was cooked in vegetable broth, so that it wasn’t overwhelmingly meaty. The balance between rabbit, kale, and pasta was also great. There was more rabbit than pasta, which added to the rich flavor and texture of the dish.

The Aztec bowl had well cooked quinoa, which had a nice texture between soft and crunchy. On top of the quinoa was a slice of avocado and a generous quantity of squash. In the salad, in another third of the bowl, were multicolored cherry tomatoes, green beans, spinach, beet slivers, and corn. The spinach was flavorful with a neutral sauce. The beet slivers were sweet, with a naturally strong flavour and a slight crunch. The multicolored tomatoes served as another burst of flavour. The corn, cut right off the cob, was sweet and tied the vegetables together well. In the last third of the bowl was the chicken add on in a delicious green sauce. All parts of the dish meshed well together and tasted wonderful separately. With such a generous portion, she was able to get the protein and veggies she missed during the strike, and have almost half leftover for later.

In terms of a student lunch, nothing compared to the bowls. The Beat Hotel offers a variety of healthy and delicious bowls that are incredibly filling and reasonably priced. These bowls are a healthy alternative to burrito bowls and salads, for around $14 with fresh vegetables and a variety of add ons, from falafel to skirt steak to tuna, for $2-9.

The two women sitting next to us remarked that when the Beat first opened up, nobody wanted to try to the bowls because it seemed so informal, but that day most everyone in the restaurant had ordered one. It really is the best deal on the menu

Boston Veg Food Fest

Published on October 25, 2016 by The Crimson CraveLeave a comment

By Joseph Winters ’20

Back home in Washington State, there was an annual vegetarian fair in Seattle called VegFest. For an entire weekend, vegan and vegetarian foodies would congregate at the Seattle Center for two days of cheese-less, egg-less, meat-less wonder. Could it get any better?

To non-vegetarians, it sounds lame, I realize. I dragged one friend to VegFest last year who refused to set foot inside the building, instead asking where the nearest burger place was. But one reluctant step into VegFest quickly changed his mind—vegetarian fairs are not about flavorless deprivation from traditional animal products. There’s actually some really profound meaning behind them. But before mentioning that, the shallow truth of what really gets people to show up to a Veg Food Fest: samples.

My first step into the Boston Veg Food Fest at the Reggie Lewis Athletic Center on Tremont Street revealed that it was going to be everything I loved about Seattle’s VegFest—only in Boston. The gym was packed. I bought a tote bag and immediately began scanning the room for free samples. They weren’t hard to find; I quickly started scooping up packets of meatless teriyaki jerky, raw agave, granola bars, hummus. Other samples were meant to be eaten on the spot: spiced pumpkin seeds, whole-grain mochi balls, tomato goji chutney, sea salt-flavored popped sorghum. There were, of course, the stereotypical vegan substitutes of “Veganaise”, vegan butterscotch “pudding”, and vegan American “cheese”. As an omnivore, I’m never a huge fan of these substitutions, but I have to say the ones I tried at the Veg Food Fest could have fooled me.

I was pretty hungry, so after my hors d’oeuvres—including Pizza Almonds, Cheeky Monkey Peanut Butter Puffs, and an entire (free) So Delicious coconut ice cream sandwich (from a whole box of ice cream sandwiches I got for free)—I bought a Miso Bowl from Whole Heart Provisions, a sweet little vegetarian restaurant in Allston. Rice on the bottom, cooked veggies in the middle, and miso sauce with crispy chickpeas on top.

I grabbed dessert at the FoMu booth. Ironically, they have a location right next door to Whole Heart Provisions’s Allston location. They were featuring some seasonal coconut-based ice creams, particularly Pumpkin Caramel, Purple Mu, and Apple Cider Donut. I mixed all three.

The interesting takeaway from the Veg Food Fest, in my opinion, is the variability of reasons for veganism. I walked past booths advocating the humane treatment of animals, booths about the “protein myth” that a vegan diet can’t provide enough nutrients for healthy development, and booths about the ecological benefits of an animal-free diet. For me—not a vegan, as I’ve said—it’s about awareness. I love vegan restaurants and organizations because there’s obvious care that goes into food sourcing (the ecological benefit), food preparation (the health benefit), and they’re often local businesses run by passionate employees (the human benefit).

Take, for example, The Jackfruit Company. I met Alex Chamallas at the Veg Food Fest as he was serving up something that looked a lot like barbecue sauce-smothered pulled pork. “It’s jackfruit,” he explained to passerby who peered into his steaming crockpot. Jackfruit is a tropical fruit that grows in conditions too poor for other species to thrive, making it “easy to sustainably source,” according to the company’s website. Jackfruit is notably prolific in developing India, and The Jackfruit Company has taken advantage of the stringy, fibrous fruit to “provide income and opportunity for thousands of farming families” in the country. It’s high in fiber, and, subjectively, pretty delicious when stewed with a sweet and spicy sauce. The company was actually started by a Harvard College graduate, Annie Ryu, who calls herself a “socialentrepreneur—a business developer with a conscience.” To me, the jackfruit story is exemplar of the best reason for a vegan outlook on eating because it promotes the three lenses of environmental sustainability, social sustainability, and health, which is a heck of a lot more than a gimmicky low-cal pork substitute.

With my tote bag—and stomach—full of wonderful vegan food, I left the Veg Food Fest still working on my bowl of FoMu ice cream. Unfortunately, my free box of So Delicious ice cream bars won’t last me until next year’s Fest, but maybe a solid day or two. Until then, I may look twice at some cool new products whenever I visit the grocery store, notably the strangely delicious and versatile jackfruit.

Alive and Kicking’s Lobster Sandwich: A Subtle Twist on the Classic

Published on October 25, 2016October 25, 2016 by The Crimson CraveLeave a comment

By Estefania Lahera ‘20

I am a person that loves superlatives. Going through one of Food & Wine’s or Thrillist’s or Eater’s lists of, say, the best falafel in America and looking for a spot mentioned that’s in my city to try it out for myself is probably my favorite pastime.

Upon moving to Boston, I took it upon myself to put all those lists to the test and find the city’s best lobster roll.

Most of the lists echoed each other: Neptune’s Oyster, James Hook + Co, Yankee Lobster, Island Creek Oyster Bar, B & G Oysters etc.

But something was odd. I was looking for the best lobster roll, but on many lists there was tangential addition: a lobster sandwich, from Alive and Kicking Lobsters right here in Cambridge!

It was a bit odd and I put it off until the end of my list. After a month or so, however, I had already tried all the most obvious choices (for the record, my money’s on Island Creek Oyster Bar) so in order to absolutely exhaust every possibility, to leave no room for doubt, it was time to try this wannabe sandwich, this pseudo-lobster roll.

The more I researched, I saw that the sandwich was the subject of decent acclaim (as most restaurants I visit are, because I don’t want to waste my time on mediocrity). I also found out that it’s within walking distance of Harvard! A long walk, about half an hour, but still walking distance, and altogether rather pleasant on a day with good weather as the past couple have been.

The restaurant is small, more like a “lobster shack” than an actual restaurant, but I think that’s part of its charm. It’s not meant to be a restaurant, it’s meant to be a source of really, really fresh seafood. Inside there’s a display case of fresh seafood, a freezer of things you can take home like chowder and ice cream (random!), while picnic tables are outside. They don’t give water, not even from the tap, which makes me sad; you have to buy it. However, they do make their own sodas in house, which is cool.

You order at the counter, and they bring the food out. The price changes with the seasons, with summer being the cheapest, but when I went the roll, which included a bag of chips, was about $17. It was pricey for a sandwich, but actually cheaper than the average lobster roll.

Now onto the substance of the article: the actual food itself.

I was impressed by the quality of the chips: no preservatives, just pure potato in peanut oil and salt, nothing hiding in the ingredients list. Since the company didn’t make the chips, I don’t think reviewing them is really relevant, but suffice to say that chips are rarely bad.

The sandwich bread was generic white sandwich bread, but toasted a beautiful, light brown and actually not soggy, which pleased me. The lobster meat was plentiful, fresh, and not overwhelmed in mayo, which I appreciated. But what it lacked in mayo it made up in globs of butter, which I did not feel were necessary. I couldn’t taste the butter anyway, so there was really no point in it being there. If you like the sweet, slightly one-dimensional flavor of lobster, great. That’s a common flaw I’ve noticed in most lobster rolls, so I can’t fault this sandwich in particular, but still. Seasoning.

Compared to lobster rolls? This was definitely equivalent to many of the lobster rolls I’ve had. The toasted bread was a welcome twist on the original roll, and I found something to be appreciated about a higher lobster to carb ratio. Rarely do rolls have a nice crust, and there is a higher probability that they will be stale.

Given this overall pleasant experience, it begs the question: why aren’t lobster sandwiches a thing? Why only lobster rolls?

But as long as Alive and Kicking stays in operations I guess it doesn’t matter. One good lobster sandwich in this city is enough for me.

The Hourly: A New Oyster House in Harvard Square

Published on October 17, 2016October 17, 2016 by The Crimson CraveLeave a comment

By Hayoung Chang ’18

With the coming and going of many restaurants in Harvard Square, a new bar dedicated to oysters has opened it doors in the last month. Named The Hourly, this oyster bar is owned by The Grafton Group, which already boasts four other restaurants in the area: Grafton Street Pub and Grill, PARK Restaurant, Russell House Tavern, and Temple Bar.

With midterms in full swing and the seemingly endless continuation of the HUDS strike, I decided I needed a pick me up. Since I love oysters and seafood, I thought what could be a better option than the new oyster bar? On Wednesday night, a friend and I headed over to 15 Dunster Street with high hopes.

Upon entering, a friendly hostess showed us to our seats. What was immediately striking was the cozy yet sophisticated ambience. The lighting was on point (as they say) with a soft golden glow illuminating the bar and seating area from an overhead light that could only be described as artsy.

While the restaurant was not too crowded, all the bar seats were taken by those sipping cocktails. They had a separate menu for their raw bar, on which the oysters were listed based on origin. I ordered one each from Summerside (Canada), Cotuit and Cuttyhunk (Massachusetts). For our entrees, I ordered The Hourly Burger, and my friend the Crispy Goat Cheese Sandwich.

While waiting for our food, the waitress brought out the restaurant’s original salt and vinegar chips. Both crispy and delightfully seasoned, the chips were the perfect finger food to stimulate our appetites.

Once the oysters came out, the waitress kindly explained to us where each one came from. I tried the Summerside first, and was immediately engulfed in a burst of flavor. It started with an oceanic flavor then a slightly creamy lingering and a spectacularly fresh and clean finish. The oyster meat itself was so pleasurably tangy and juicy that it made me salivate for more. The two from Massachusetts were more briny but the combination with the red sauce made for a real delight.

Then our entrees came. The first thing that struck us was the size; the plates were absolutely enormous, piled high with fries and greens next to our burger and sandwich. The burger itself was gargantuan as well, the kind that you cannot possibly fit into your mouth to take a bite. The umami flavor of the meat and bacon blended well with the melted cheese and crispy onions. The fluffiness of the brioche bun contrasted nicely with the crunch of fried onions to leave a savory albeit slightly greasy aftertaste.

Overall the service was excellent as the waitress continually checked in on how our meal was, and the entrees arrived swiftly. While the burger was delicious, it was the oysters that stole the show with its exceptional freshness. I would recommend The Hourly as a nice date night option as the ambience contributes to a cozy and intimate mood. I will definitely be coming back to try the other options in their raw bar!

Location: 15 Dunster Street, Cambridge, MA

Reservations: OpenTable

Overall Rating: 4.5/5

Food: 4/5

Service: 5/5

Ambience: 5/5

B.good returns to Harvard Square

Published on October 17, 2016October 24, 2016 by The Crimson CraveLeave a comment

By Joseph Winters ‘20

On March 29, 2016, Harvard Square suffered a great loss. Students, faculty, and all manner of health-minded individuals mourned the closing of one of the most convenient farm-to-table fast food places around. Not that there were many to begin with… Either way, B.good’s closing was a blow to the food scene of Harvard Square. This Friday, however, B.good reopened with a bang on Eliot Street, in what eaters are describing as a much-needed addition to Harvard’s healthy food scene. “There just wasn’t hardly any place healthy to eat in the Square!” lamented one B.good customer as she devoured a scoop of lime-soaked quinoa.

Monika Bach Schroeder, Marketing Manager for Harvard Square B.good

The Crimson Crave visited B.good on its opening day, Friday, to survey the situation. We were greeted by Monika Bach Schroeder, Marketing Manager for the Harvard Square location. Schroeder was supervising a Wheel-of-Fortune style promotion—spin the wheel and walk away with some B.good sunglasses, a high-five, or, with some luck, a free burger. We were lucky enough to get the burger.

“We make real food,” the B.good website advertises boldly on its home page. A simple slogan, but it speaks volumes when seen in conjunction with the tangible measures B.good has taken to produce high quality fast food options. Customers can order classic items like burgers or sandwiches, but B.good also offers kale and grain bowls, seasonal salads, creative sides, and smoothies.

New additions to the B.good menu are “Plates”: Chipotle Avocado, Mediterranean Mezze, and Asian Bento. “We’re really proud of our new plates,” says Schroeder. “They speak a lot to our mission of staying innovative and fresh; we use seasonal ingredients to offer healthy food options.”

Apart from good food, Schroeder adds that the B.good team is “really excited about this community.” Harvard, she says, is a very engaged community, one into which B.good tries to integrate itself. On the day preceding the former B.good’s closing, they held a “pay what you can” day. All the day’s profits were donated to Y2Y, a homeless youth shelter in Cambridge. Upon their reopening, they held a similar project, raising $1700 for Y2Y, enough to provide over a full month of programming to the homeless shelter.

Local farmers are also beneficiaries. B.good sources many of its ingredients from farms in the Northeast. When we visited, a colorful map showed apples, cauliflower, squash, fresh mint, pumpkin, tomatoes, and yogurt all coming from Massachusetts, and many other ingredients like beef, bread, eggs, and bacon being sourced from the other northeastern states.

At the door this Friday, customers were greeted by Casey Ballin from Hannah Farm, a one acre plot of land on an island in Boston Harbor. Now managed by B.good, the farm benefits the local community, producing food for Camp Harbor View summer camp for at-risk youth. At the camp, teens learn to prepare healthy meals from local ingredients. Up to 20,000 pounds of produce are expected to be produced by Hannah Farm, with a majority being donated to the summer camp, and much being featured in B.good restaurants. “We did a feature a couple weeks ago, where we sold kale smoothies made with our own kale,” Ballin explained as he handed out samples of carrots and grape tomatoes from Hannah Farm.

This Friday was the first of many meals I’m sure I’ll be having at B.good. The chain brings its fresh dishes to the Square along with a fresh ideology, one that incorporates sustainability, local commerce, and—of course—delicious food. On the short walk to my seat, I ogled picnic pear and brie salads, Thai almond bowls, sweet potato fries, and even pumpkin milkshakes. I tried the Spicy Lime Avocado Bowl with their seasonal side: local cauliflower coated in cheddar and breadcrumbs. I might have over-ordered, but it was oh, so good. Plus, the side was free; first-time users of the B.good app will automatically get a side on the house! I would easily recommend B.good to anyone looking for a tasty, healthy morsel without the wait at a sit-down restaurant.

En Boca: A Welcome Addition to Harvard Square

Published on October 10, 2016October 10, 2016 by br126Leave a comment

By Caroline Gentile ’17

Logo from En Boca Website

As of late, the food scene in Harvard Square has been bleak. With the onset of construction and subsequent mass exodus of restaurants, there have been significantly fewer options to choose from. Add into the mix that HUDS is on strike, and the options further dwindle. Thankfully, as of Thursday, October 6th, there is a new restaurant in the square: En Boca.

Originally in the building that used to be Sandrine’s, En Boca was purchased by restaurant developers Bill Goodwin and Peter Sarmanian, who are also behind two well-known Irish pubs in Boston, in March of 2015. Unlike their other restaurants, En Boca is far from an Irish pub. Goodwin’s goal in creating En Boca was to serve “creative, farm-to-table food with a Mediterranean influence” in an ambiance that is “classic with a modern feel,:

Crimson Crave co-President, Richa Chaturvedi ‘18, another friend, and I decided to check it out. Upon walking into the restaurant, we were struck by how beautifully decorated it is. We immediately felt transported from the grind of the Harvard Bubble, despite being a stone’s throw from the River Houses. We sat by the large window overlooking Holyoke Street, which was truly a treat, even with the construction across the street.

New Menu.PNG — Menu from En Boca Website

En Boca’s menu mostly consists of small plates; our server recommended we order three or four plates per person. “It’s all about the sharing experience,” Goodwin explained to me over the phone, before I even set foot in the restaurant. With this in mind, my companions and I ordered seven small plates, and one of their larger, yet still shareable, dishes.

At En Boca, everything comes out to the table as soon as it is ready. Before we knew it, our table was adorned with several small plates. The first thing we sampled were the patatas bravas, which were paired with aioli, tomato, and sweet pepper. The potatoes were cooked perfectly; the skin was crispy, but the potato itself was tender. To me, the highlight of the dish were the sauces, though. The sweet pepper sauce and creamy aioli not only complemented each other, but also the saltiness of the potatoes. Overall, this dish was delicious and simple. I imagine it will be a popular menu item as time goes on!

Next up were the crispy brussel sprouts. It seems as though the chefs at En Boca have realized the truth about vegetables, particularly brussel sprouts: they are much, much tastier when paired with bacon. The brussel sprouts themselves were beautifully browned and lived up to their description as crispy, but I stand by my assertion the bacon was the star of the show. Of all the small plates, my dining companions and I agreed that this was one of the best.

One of our fellow diners would argue that the best dish was the chicken liver pâté. In fact, she refused to share it because she liked it so much, and claimed it was some of the best pâté she has ever had!

Another standout dish was the local halloumi cheese. For anyone who has never tried halloumi, ordering it at En Boca is the perfect opportunity. The small plate gives you just a taste of this delicious, salty cheese along with notes of hazelnut. After your first bite, you’ll wish this dish came with more than just three pieces.

The charred cauliflower, while not quite a standout, was still quite delicious. Lightly fried, the cauliflower itself was not particularly flavorful, but the accompanying sultanas and labneh, which is basically a creamy mediterranean aioli, really made the dish. In fact, the labneh also paired extremely well with the falafel. Without dipping it in the labneh, we found that the falafel was too dense and dry, but it was elevated to new levels once we realized this unexpected yet harmonious combination.

Of all the dishes, the baked farm egg with chorizo dressing and polenta was our least favorite. Though it sounded good on paper, this dish lacked the texture and flavor that the other dishes so beautifully capitulated. The egg was well-cooked (complete with plenty of yolk porn), but blended in too much with the polenta, resulting in a mushy texture and bland flavor. The chorizo was more salty than it was flavorful, and did nothing to salvage the dish. However, I liked the idea of a poached egg on the menu, and hope that the chefs will find a better way to serve it.

Our final savory course was the half roasted chicken with a sunchoke reduction. It seems as though the chefs had saved the best for last. After all, there are few things better than flavorful, juicy chicken covered in crunchy, briny skin. The sunchoke reduction amplified the chicken’s flavor perfectly. Though we were already pretty full by the time we got our final course, the chicken was one of the best dishes we had, and we made sure to make room. However, since this dish was advertised as one to share, we think that the presentation could have better reflected the sharing aspect. The chicken was served on the bone. In order to share it, we had to cut into it with our own utensils, which, if you were not dining with close friends or family, could get awkward. Given how delicious it is, leaving people to their own devices to cut the chicken could create a hunger games-esque situation. If this chicken were sliced before it were served, then it would probably be more socially acceptable to eat in a group!

In terms of drinks, En Boca is technically a wine bar, and boasts an extensive wine list, including plenty of fine wines by the glass. However, only one member of our group was over 21, and she does not like wine. Thankfully, En Boca offers many other options, including cocktails, beers, and ciders. She decided on the strawberry peach fizz cocktail. After her first sip, she decided it was both too sweet and too strong; the overwhelmingly saccharine aftertaste did not mask the taste of alcohol. Upon noticing that our friend was not drinking her drink, however, our server offered to get her another one that she might prefer.

This is just one example of the outstanding service at En Boca. While aspects of the menu are still a work in progress, one thing that En Boca has mastered is its service. Our server, Isabella, was polite, knowledgeable, and attentive. She truly made our dining experience as enjoyable as possible.

As for dessert, chef Bryan Jacobs, who used to be the private chef for both George Bush and the Anheuser-Busch family, is still experimenting with the menu. He served us a palate-cleansing dessert as well as an Egyptian cake. The palate-cleanser consisted of a quince sorbet with tahini shortbread, hazelnut and mint oils, and chantilly. While on paper, this combination may sound strange, it was one of the most unique desserts we had ever sampled; light, refreshing, sweet, and tangy.

The egyptian cake, made with semolina, and run, had a wonderfully crumbly texture without being dry. To achieve this texture while still maintaining the flavors of the cake, chef Jacobs used a brown butter reduction as his base, instead of the tried-and-true method of creaming butter and sugar together. Paired with the the airy chantilly, made using an oxygen gun, this dessert was also light, and the perfect amount of sweet. Though at this point in the meal, we had sampled at least nine different dishes, we were not completely stuffed to the point of feeling like we needed to lay still for hours. To achieve desserts that are both decadent and light is quite a feat, and chef Jacobs certainly accomplished it.

Two hours and $103 later (a reasonable price for such a high-quality dinner for three people), we left En Boca, stomachs full of delicious food and a desire to come back soon. While some of the small plates were not quite perfect, the chicken and the desserts were more than enough to keep us coming back for more. Before En Boca officially opened its doors, Goodwin acknowledged his excitement about opening and “correcting our mistakes as we go.” With its outstanding service and talent in the kitchen, En Boca has a great deal of potential, and we can’t wait to see how it evolves in the coming months.

Location: 8 Holyoke Street, Cambridge, MA

Reservations: OpenTable

Standout dishes: Half-Roasted Chicken, Crispy Brussel Sprouts, Patatas Bravas

Overall Rating: 4.5/5

Food: 4/5

Service: 5/5

Atmosphere: 5/5

Mediterranean Small Plates Coming September 29

Published on September 21, 2016September 21, 2016 by The Crimson CraveLeave a comment

By Bovey Rao ‘19

Logo from En Boca Website

From the creators of two popular Irish pubs, En Boca is a Mediterranean small plates concept that will be opening in the space that was formerly occupied by Sandrine’s Bistro. Near the construction of the Smith Campus Center, En Boca hopes to open on September 29. Classic Restaurant Concepts manages the Asgard in Cambridge and the Kinsale in Boston and is entering Harvard Square with a drastically different restaurant model. With wine on draft and a focus on small plates, En Boca aims to provide an alternative dining destination with a similar model to Alden and Harlow.

EnBocaMenu_V5a.indd — Photo from Boston Magazine

The head chef, Devin Broo, has an impressive resume as he worked at Restaurant Daniel, a former three Michelin Star restaurant (currently has 2 Michelin Stars), Bar Boulud in Boston, and the Elm Restaurant in Connecticut. His menu covers a wide variety of Mediterranean cuisines with connections to Spain and Greece. While classic small plates like patatas bravas (hot potatoes), bacalou croquettes (codfish cakes), and wood grilled octopus line the menu, there are many intriguing dishes like byrek (spinach pie), stuffed baby squid, and slow poached arctic char. In addition to the small plates, there are larger shared dishes like an Acadian redfish baked in clay.

En Boca will focus on serving dinner on the opening date, but it hopes to eventually expand with a lunch and brunch program.

I am looking forward to visiting En Boca in the near future and sampling a wide variety of small plates, while lamenting at the fact that I cannot explore their wine program.

[Boston Magazine]

Tatte Bakery & Café Slated for October 4

Published on September 21, 2016September 21, 2016 by The Crimson CraveLeave a comment

By Bovey Rao ‘19

As reported by Eater, the Harvard Square Tatte Bakery & Café is projected to open on October 4^th, 2016. While opening much later than originally anticipated, the store will be the largest of the Tatte Bakery & Café chain that is present throughout Boston. With the wood paneling finally dismantled, we are given a glimpse of the storefront as it is being painted. It is beginning to resemble the other branches of Tatte with clean, white paneling and a modern, industrial café vibe. Armed with a new Bongard oven and two floors of space, Tatte looks to fill the void of Panera Bread and then some.

The first floor will house the kitchen and have numerous seating areas from a communal dining space to a banquette and lounges. This may appeal to students seeking a place to relax or have casual conversations while they enjoy coffee and pastries. Otherwise, this may be a new destination for business coffee chats in a well-lit, comfortable environment. On the second floor, there will be a coffee bar and an open kitchen space. The owner and founder of Tatte, Tzurit Or, mentioned that cooking and baking classes will be offered a few times a month. Therefore, the opportunity to learn how to make their excellent pear tarts or savory moussaka may be coming in the future.

While I may be patiently waiting for Tatte to open, the large delay in projected opening date has been unfortunate and has deprived Harvard students from dining outside of the D-Hall.

[Eater]