pastries

With Panera Closing, Tatte Bakery Steps In

Published on March 2, 2016March 2, 2016 by br1262 Comments

by Bovey Rao ‘19

Oh, Panera, you never really meant that much to me… While for some students Panera is a staple, I’ve never been the biggest fan of ‘commercialized’ foods. My friends can attest to the fact that I frequently voice my distaste for chains like Chipotle, Panera, and Au Bon Pain. Ok, you might think this is all a bunch of food snobbery, but for me, the problem is not the flavor of the food, but the principle of it.

While these businesses advertise non-GMO, pesticide and antibiotic free food, what does that really mean? Are we not falling for the same trap of the previous generation that was promised fast, convenient, and cheap food? We are becoming numb to what is out there in the world of food, and falling into the trap of buzzwords and catchphrases. I’ll be honest: when Panera closed, I smiled. When I found out what replaced it, my smile only widened.

Tatte Bakery and Café is a homegrown Boston bakery and café with numerous branches throughout the city from Kendall Square to Brookline. They serve a wide range of Middle Eastern dishes and pastries as well as the more traditional café fare. From a small stand at Boston farmer’s markets to five established and beloved bakeries, Tatte has proven to be a Boston success story. And it all started with one person, owner Tzurit Or.

tzurit-330x295 — Tzurit Or, from Tatte’s website

Tzurit grew up in Israel and learned traditional baking techniques from her mother. After years of working as a film producer, she realized her true calling in life was baking. She picked up her belongings and moved to Boston, where she started baking from her kitchen. Starting at local farmer’s markets, her carefully crafted pastries received rave reviews. The rest is history.

Delicious various pastries (buttery croissants, fluffy popovers, rich morning buns)

As you probably guessed, a new Tatte Bakery and Café location will be opening in the space previously occupied by Panera Bread. I could barely contain my excitement when I heard this news. A locally-operated business replacing a national chain? It was music to my ears. However, I do humbly applaud Panera for their business model and their care for the customer.

In early February, Panera Bread purchased a majority stake in Tatte Bakery and Café, but will allow them to run independently. This funding allowed Tatte Bakery to fill the Panera space and reach a new audience of (I hope at least) excited and hungry Harvard students. While construction may take some time (it opens in summer according to a manager at the Main Street Tatte Bakery and Café), it is an addition that is sorely needed. As I sip my café au lait and enjoy my pistachio-filled, baklava-esque croissant, I cannot help but think:

Goodbye Panera; Welcome home Tatte.

A selection of tasteful shots from Tatte Bakery and Café on Main Street and all the ‘yum’ that is to come:

Don’t fret, they have a full menu as well.

Meringue Clouds and Cookies from your dreams.

Warm and Comforting Ambiance despite the rain.

Popovers from your dreams

Confectionary (Clafoutis, Cheesecake, Tarts, Parfaits)

*Note: The straight croissant is a sign that means it was made with butter. Curved croissants usually have margarine or an alternative form of fat.

Update: Eater provided exciting information with an email from Tzurit Or.

Sofra Bakery and Cafe: Cambridge Bakery Brings Middle Eastern Spices to the Masses

Published on November 22, 2015November 22, 2015 by The Crimson CraveLeave a comment

by Bovey Rao ’19

In 2001, Ana Sortun opened her landmark restaurant, Oleana, in Somerville. After an incredible tour of Turkey, Sortun returned to Boston to introduce the city to exotic Eastern Mediterranean flavors. The restaurant exploded in popularity, and in 2005, Sortun was awarded the James Beard Award for Best Chef Northeast. As Oleana was filled consistently, Sortun began looking into a new project, Sofra.

Sofra Bakery and Café was inspired by Turkish bazaars, which offer food, drinks, spices, and other ingredients in a small area. The store has two separate sections with a café in one section, then a market space that sells condiments, wines, and spices. Upon entering, you encounter the vibrant aromas of the Mediterranean like cardamom, cinnamon, and coriander. A quick glance at the counter reveals an extensive menu with a wide assortment of baked goods. Sofra followed the meze style of dining, so there are many small vegetarian dishes as well as some larger dishes with meats. With staples like falafel, shawarma, and hummus, the menu might seem generic at first; however, upon closer inspection, the subtle complexities shown through. Sortun’s goal is to make Mediterranean flavors and spices approachable to the American palette, so many local ingredients are incorporated into the complex “foreign” dishes.

As my exhausted group of friends and I collapsed into Sofra after a run, we glanced over the counter at the menu. After we caught our breath, we placed our orders and cooled down from our run. A short while later, my spinach falafel wrap, pumpkin turnover, and grape sharbat arrived with my friend’s orders of chicken shawarma and a red-dragon iced tea.

The spinach falafel wrap was served with a little tahini, beet tzatziki, pickles, and fresh greens. Falafel is a traditional Middle Eastern dish, prepared by grinding fava beans or chickpeas and then frying it. While the dish may be simple, there is a complexity to the dish, with a unique mix of spices and textural differences giving it almost meaty impression. Sofra’s rendition was mixed with spinach and accompanied by rich, creamy tahini and acidic pickles. Unfortunately, the exterior of the falafel lacked the distinctive crispness I expected. Thus, I was slightly underwhelmed as the wrap had a uniform texture, but the refreshing bitterness of the greens and crunch of the pickles improved dish immensely.

While ordering, I was overwhelmed by the sheer number of choices for the baked goods. With cookies, tarts, breads, and a plethora of other seasonal baked goods, Sofra prepares a number of traditional Mediterranean pastries as well other European baked items with Mediterranean influences. Fortunately, the cashier provided a quick recommendation of the pumpkin turnover. While the recommendation seemed plain, I was pleasantly surprised by the flavorful sweet and savory pastry. With the traditional pumpkin spices of cinnamon and nutmeg, the flavor was incredible with the flaky buttery turnover. The fresh sweet pumpkin inside was a nostalgic reminder of autumn.

Normally, I do not comment on the drinks that are served in my restaurant reviews, but the seasonal sharbat was sensational. With a strong grape cardamom concentrate mixed with sparkling water, the drink left a powerful sweet flavor.

A mere two miles away, Sofra serves as a cheaper destination for those seeking the Mediterranean experience. The more accessible sister of Oleana, Sofra delivers similar flavors in a cozier and more comfortable environment. While the food may not have been as elevated as at Oleana, the identity of the restaurant as an approachable café was apparent. If I ever desire a falafel wrap or a savory, spiced pastry, I will run in the direction of Sofra.

Sofra Bakery and Cafe

Location: 1 Belmont Street, Cambridge, MA 02138

Reservation: N/A

Stand out dishes: Pumpkin Turnover (Seasonal), Grape Sharbat (Seasonal)

Overall Rating: 4/5

Food: 3.5/5

Service: 5/5

Ambience: 4.5/5

“Fall” In Love: A New Series About Uniquely Fall Food and Drinks

Published on October 17, 2015October 17, 2015 by The Crimson CraveLeave a comment

by Angela Yi ’19

The breeze is blowing, the leaves are taking on lovely red and gold hues – and the delicious scent of cinnamon and pumpkin are wafting in the air. Autumn has finally arrived, and with it are new, seasonal food and drinks.

Pumpkin Spice, Apple Cider, and Caramel Apple are only a few of the numerous flavors that are available only during the fall. And I’m going on a mission to try as many seasonal pastries, drinks, ice cream, cakes, pies, anything and everything that I can – and fall in love with each and every one of them.

Autumn is definitely my favorite season. The weather is in the perfect balance of hot and cold, and fall fashion is indisputably the best fashion. Coats, booties, tights, scarves – the possibilities and outfits are endless.

But most of all, the fall-specific menus many restaurants and cafes have makes autumn the real winner. The only detraction is that these foods are available only during a few months of the year. But, this exclusivity might be what makes Pumpkin Spice – and all the other fall flavors – impossible not to love.

Lowell House’s Not-So-Hidden Treasure

Published on October 5, 2015 by The Crimson CraveLeave a comment

by Landy Erlick ’19

Whether you are new to the Harvard campus, or are simply cooped up in the Quad working on problem sets, you may not have had the opportunity yet to attend a Lowell House tea – and you’re certainly missing out. Every Thursday at 5 o’clock sharp, the kettles are whistling and the students are hustling into the beautiful home of Lowell House Masters Diana Eck and Dorothy Austin.

The weekly gathering is a long-established tradition for Lowell students, but Eck and Austin kindly open their doors to non-House members as well. After waiting in line for several minutes with anticipation building, you are ushered into Lowell’s beautiful courtyard (weather permitting), and from there the opportunities are endless.

The green enclosure is a small departure from the rest of the event. There, a linen covered table offers tortilla chips and guacamole. However, in keeping with the elegant standards of this house affair, there is also a bright punch bowl of lemonade to keep guests hydrated and to serve as an option for the non-tea drinkers out there.

Inside, the real delights appear. Popping your head through gaps in the throng, you can spot Lowell’s famous monkey bread, chocolate chip cookies, peanut butter brownies, and some apple crisp – all fresh out of the oven. The warm, gooey pastries are the product of eager Lowell House student-chefs, fondly dubbed “Lowell Elves.”

Lowell resident Anne Mathews ’16 is baking for the first time this year. “Some things, likes the scones and cheesecake bars, are Lowell traditions,” Matthew explains. “But my favorite thing to make is sugar cookies.” Indeed, the cookies are a crowd favorite. Master’s Residence Manager Charlotte McKetchnie is in charge of the beloved function, though student bakers can be seen scurrying out the kitchen and into the parlor to replenish any plate looking too bare.

And if cookies aren’t your cup of tea, there are several cake options throughout the hour. First, a beautiful wedding cake. (Yes, Lowell tea offers a small, white wedding cake.) Then, a decadent chocolate slice awaits. Finally, for the third restock, another beautiful yellow cake adorned with flowers. All of the food looks so professional, you would think Harvard offered a culinary class.

For the savory fanatics, there is the extremely popular baked brie and crackers. Be warned: if you’re not there within seconds of this platter being put down, you won’t even be able to find a trace of the delectable cheese. In keeping with the tradition of high tea, there is also a platter of finger sandwiches, ranging from a classic cucumber to a trendy Nutella.

And the attendees, hosts, and bakers aren’t the only ones enjoying themselves every Thursday.

“Dorothy and Diana have an adorable polydactyl cat named Willy who gets underfoot in the kitchen,” Mathews said.

Joanne Chang’s “Science of Sugar”

Published on September 28, 2015September 28, 2015 by The Crimson CraveLeave a comment

by Bovey Rao ’19

Nationally recognized pastry chef Joanne Chang ’91 returned to Harvard as part of the Science and Cooking Lecture Series. The series combines a love of delicious food with an equal appreciation for science. Each lecture begins with a brief introduction on the relevant scientific terminology and equations. While informative, these introductions only build anticipation for the main event.

During her years at Harvard, Chang concentrated in Applied Mathematics and Economics. However, she enjoyed baking in much of her spare time. After working as a consultant for a few years, she quit her job and pursued this true passion. Since that time, she has opened numerous Flour Bakeries and Myers + Chang, proving herself as an incredible baker and accomplished businesswoman. By returning to Harvard, she introduces the relevance and applications of science in the world of gourmet cuisine.

Chang’s lecture on September 21 was titled “The Science of Sugar” because of Chang’s expertise as a baker and pastry chef at some of the best United States restaurants. We are introduced to sugar as a malleable tool that accomplishes many incredible tasks in cooking.

Creaming: The process of mixing sugar and butter is a process known as creaming, which is essential to several aspects of baking. Cookies, cakes, frosting, and the like depend on creaming to incorporate additional air into the good.

Hydroscopicity: Sugar is incredible at absorbing water, which allows it to preserve food and make it last significantly longer. This is essential to many commercial goods and allows them to stored and marketed for large periods of time.

Lowering freezing point: For many frozen goods (ice cream, sorbets, even frozen yogurt), sugar lowers the freezing point, which can make for a much more palatable product. Sugar, in high enough quantities, prevents the crystallization of water and allows for a smoother product.

Stabilizes egg foams: While enjoying that mousse, soufflé, or meringue, the egg foams did not just stand up on their own. Sugar is crucial in the process of ensuring that the proteins in the egg foams do not collapse.

Aids in browning: Enjoy the lovely browned cake or cookie? Sugar is responsible for this as it caramelizes on the surface of these goods.

Tenderizes and inhibits gluten development: When gluten in flour tries to form, sugar can prevent it from happening. Gluten makes many baked goods tough and unpalatable, and sugar ensures the product remains tender, without tough gluten fibers.

Crisps pastries: Again, sugar works as a caramelizing agent by providing that quintessential crunch to many baked goods. Many baked goods depend on the crisp texture provided by sugar.

After exploring these incredible features of sugar, we began a series of actual demonstrations.Whipping egg whites with and without sugar showed the importance of sugar in forming those peaks. Sugar was heated to different points and then cooled to demonstrate how the properties of sugar changes at unique temperatures. At different temperatures, the sugar changes significantly as it could become a hard ball of sugar or a smooth caramel. As the pièce de résistance, Chang created a magnificent croquembouche with heated sugar, which melted to form a net of spun sugar. The thin, angelic threads of sugar demonstrate the truly impressive properties of such a simple substance.

In addition to this extravagant experimentation with sugar, Chang has most recently written a cookbook, Baking with Less Sugar. This feat is incredible given the properties that were explored in the lecture. Chang explored a wide array of natural sweets as possible sugar substitutes and how to get the most out natural sweetness. Be sure to check it out!